It is not only dangerous, but feels dangerous too. While recently announced figures show that the crime rate in Delhi in 2010 was down compared to 2009, the number of cases nevertheless remained high at 48,161.
The quality of life for thousands living there is unacceptably poor, the noise and pollution is oppressive and those not used to the city will likely find little to recommend it, either as a backpackers stop or a holiday destination.
But there is a place in Delhi where the constant noise gives way to silence. The countless tourist scams are respectfully left outside and the unfaltering tide of traffic leaves this oasis - tucked against the banks of the river Yamuna - in relative seclusion.
In fact, at the risk of sounding overly dramatic, राज घाट, - or Raj Ghat - is the closest you will find to absolute serenity inside Delhi.
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A black marble platform marks the spot of Gandhi's cremation on 31 January 1948 Photo by: JOE BRISCOE |
Indeed, gently strolling around the mini-mecca, it is difficult not to begin pondering the important questions in life.
As you stand there, staring into the eternally flickering flame which marks the spot where the father of modern India became one with the world around him, the world around you stops and time itself can pass you by. The utmost respect is seemingly demanded by the very stone walls which encircle the centrepiece, and an atmosphere of forgiveness and acceptance fills the air between those wandering around.
The very principles of Gandhi himself seem to have been contained in this rather special place.
One wishes they could be amplified and beamed from here around the rest of the world.
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| राज घाट - The eternal flame provides comfort to people from all over the world. Photo by: JOE BRISCOE |
The flame, which is never extinguished, repeatedly draws a hushed reverance from those who peer into it - eyes which are shown countless shapes dancing and leaping within the glass.
The day of Gandhi's assassination remains the country's 'Martyr's Day', and the day of his birth, known as Gandhi Jayanti, is a nationwide holiday - but it is here that one is truly able to marvel at what the man achieved. To still be bringing calm and quiet to a corner of a city as noisy and harsh as Delhi, 63 years after his death, is a miracle itself. One which plays as a fitting and continuous epitaph to the effects that a single man had on a nation.
"...we will not see him again, as we have seen him for these many years, we will not run to him for advice or seek solace from him, and that is a terrible blow.." - Jawaharlal Nehru
And while Nehru, in his radio address to the country, told the world of India's loss and it's inability to any longer go to Gandi for solace, it is worth remembering that even today, Gandhi and the simple, peaceful oasis of Raj Ghat continues to provide that tranquility for those who visit it.
Visit it, as everyone should.
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| Nowhere does a sunset say as much as it does at Raj Ghat. Photo by: JOE BRISCOE |
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