The area has effectively been closed to foreigners, and where once it was very difficult to get entry permits to the roof of the world, it is now virtually impossible.
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| Cosham: Do people in England really care about campaigns such as Free Tibet? |
Back in early 2009 when I was there, it was possible to slip away from your minders and speak to people - even though it was only 8 or 9 months after the 08 riots. It was strictly forbidden of course, but certainly do-able, as we found out.
But at this time of the year, when the anniversary of the largest challenge to Chinese rule comes around, the Chinese police show up for work with just that little extra fire in their step - their fists clenched just that bit tighter.
Emotions are high among the Tibetans still, though hearing that from someone inside Tibet is rare. The Dalai Lama is still blamed by the government for virtually every incident that happens, even though he has made it clear multiple times that he no longer seeks independence - just meaningful autonomy.
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| Lhasa - the capital of Tibet and the site of regular protests against Chinese rule. Photo by: Joe Briscoe |
But back over here in England, when many are taking to the streets and waving banners and boards more likely to read 'Stop the cuts!' rather than 'Free Tibet' does anyone actually care anymore?
When the race for labour leader was nearing it's final stages last year, I must say that even though my head knew David Miliband to be the best choice, I still hoped against all hope that he would be beaten by his brother.
Why?
Because of this article in the Telegraph, dated January 9, 2010.
An excerpt:
...a remarkable statement from the Foreign Secretary, David Miliband, slipped out on the FCO website on October 29 2008, just before representatives of the Dalai Lama were due to hold talks in Beijing on the future of Tibet.
Buried in the statement was Britain's recognition for the first time that, like "all other members of the EU… we regard Tibet as part of the People's Republic of China". The historic significance of this change was not lost on Beijing, since until then Britain, with its unique role in Tibet's history, had for 100 years been very careful not to recognise Chinese sovereignty over Tibet. The group known as Free Tibet noted that Miliband's concession gravely weakened the position of the Tibetan envoys without getting anything in return – commenting how extraordinary it was that Britain should have "rewarded China in such a way in the very year that China has committed its worst human rights abuses in Tibet in decades, including killing and torture".
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| The Chinese military constantly patrols the Barkhor Square in Lhasa - the spiritual home of Tibetan Buddhism and site of regular protests. Photo by: Joe Briscoe |
In one move, Miliband had undermined what so many people had been working so hard towards. Whether there were any gains from the concession we don't know. What did the Chinese offer our government in return for such a statement? But, whereas an admission of such a kind about a multitude of places would have made national press and ruffled feathers, this one slipped past virtually unnoticed. The Telegraph and the New York Times being the two major exceptions.
So the mighty Free Tibet campaign has failed. There is afterall, no hope.
Not so fast.
While the peace loving Dalai Lama grows old and frail and talks repeatedly of 'retirement', a younger generation of Tibetan youths outside of Tibet are growing impatient. They are less tethered to the anti-violence mantras of their spiritual leader, and more outraged than ever before at their lack of a home land. And if the hope of a free China seems so distant, then it is in the hands of this volatile and firey younger generation that the future of Tibet rests.
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| Lhasa: Tibetans, gathered outside the Jokhang temple in the city centre. Photo by: Joe Briscoe |
Whether or not that is a good thing I can not say - only time will tell. But what would restore my faith in the people of England and the west in general, is an effort to show solidarity. To breach the almost impenetrable wall of lies and propaganda that encircle China and Tibet, and to prove to the world and to ourselves that we care about more than just budget cuts. That while we are able to protest against such problems here at home, we are also able to stand up for those who not only have no libraries or public toilets, but even don't have their own country, or basic human rights for their families.
Today is March the 10th - a very special day in the history of a very special country.
A country which remains bound and chained and tortured.
And while John Humphries may have been suckered in, those of us that truly know China are not fooled.
Free Tibet indeed.
What a day that would, and still could be.
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| England: Cosham railway station. |
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