EXCLUSIVE

IN THE coming days, untiltheybecomeconscious will be posting a short series of travel documentaries, filmed in Tibet.

The footage was filmed early in 2009, and documents an entirely overland journey which myself and my good friend made from Shanghai, in China to Delhi, in India.

The films include extensive footage of the incredible train journey across the plateau - the highest train line in the world - along with scenes inside the capital Lhasa, secretly filmed footage from within the infamous Sera monastery, sequences where we travel through mountain passes of over 5,000 metres above sea level, and of course coverage of our time crossing the Himalayas to Mount. Everest.

It is my intention that the majority of people who have never been to Tibet, and will likely never have the chance, will be able to see a glimpse of what life there is like, and will hopefully get a better idea of the situation in the area.

Shot entirely on a handheld video camera, the footage is raw, and the fact that it was filmed as part of an actual journey should underline it's authenticity. This is what it is actually like to travel through Tibet.

I have included a brief preview below of a scene from the third episode:



Please use the comment function below to provide feedback or ask questions.
J

Horrible histories...

A Doctor Hu Jintao doesn't like....

As an unashamed fan of Doctor Who, I can talk for hours about the hundred and one reasons why the show is so great.

And I'm not just any fan, I'm an old-school fan - one who used to watch Colin Baker and Sylvester McCoy shout at Davros from, literally, behind the sofa. I caught up with Jon Pertwee and Tom Baker on the repeats and never really let the show die, even when the BBC did.
Now it seems, that Doctor Who, along with other 'time travel' shows, are being banned by the Beijing government. Quite why, is a mystery to me. See if you can understand it.


The NY Times reports here.


Now the reasons I give for thinking so highly of the televised exploits of an alien time-traveller range from good-old nostalgia to the fact that I find it genuinely entertaining, especially now that 'the Grand Moff' is running the show.
But there is far more to it than that.

Students in China fell in love with the Doctor,
as children around the world have.
Photo by: JOE BRISCOE

At it's heart, Doctor Who is an ongoing myth, an epic adventure and a cautionary fairytale. It extolls countless morals and virtues on it's audiences, both kids and adults, and repeatedly tumpets the important things in life, always highlighting how the simple deeds of people here on Earth are just as important and fascinating as the wonders of the far-off worlds that the Time Lord takes his companions to.


Whether it's discovering 'indomitable' humans, struggling for survival in the year one-hundred trillion, claiming that while Earth is most certainly not his home, he has "put a lot of work into it" or actually being banished to our little planet and exiled here during the 1970s, the Doctor is always quick to champion the human race.

The Master controls the Central Military Comission
in Beijing

The show encourages children to question events and to be both curious and wary about everything - be it the perils of modern technology (Cybus ear-pods, ATMOS devices, or Adipose fat-fighting pills) or 'the stranger' in the street. It also goes to great lengths to show how greatness can be found in everyone, whether it's Rose Tyler, who had her eyes opened to a galaxy of possibilities, Martha Jones who saved the world by travelling around and telling stories, or Donna Noble, who regardless of being a 'temp from Chiswick', pulled all of reality back from the brink at the hands of Davros.

The show began as an educational vehicle for children - where the latest advances in technology were woven into the fictional stories in an attempt to get kids interested in science. It was a history lesson too - back in the 1960s William Hartnell encountered pre-historic man, the Romans and even Marco Polo, all the while maintaining the audiences attention with wonderful adventures.

The world's largest standing army -
they all look the same and are controlled by a lunatic.
No change there then.

And it is for all these reasons that when looking for something new, exciting and beneficial to show my Chinese students in class for a treat, I would always go immediately to my Doctor Who DVDs.



In China illegal versions of the show can be found in most DVD shops, and Blink always turned out to be the undoubted favourite, although Tooth & Claw (where the Doctor bumps into Queen Victoria just as a werewolf in unleashed upon the household) came a close second.

In the opening of the latter episode, the Doctor materialises the TARDIS exclaiming:
"1979! Hell of a year! China invades Vietnam. The Muppet Movie. Love that film. Margaret Thatcher. Ugh. Skylab fell to Earth with a little help from me. Nearly took off my thumb!"

 Now, most of us would chuckle at the Thatcher jibe and get on with the story. But not my students. No, they never heard it. Nor did they hear anything about the Muppets either. They never got that far. I looked around, having half expected this.
They were whispering to themselves, with puzzled expressions and disbelief etched into their brows.
China invades Vietnam?
This was the first they new about it. Doctor Who had taught them more truth about the history of their country within the first 15 seconds, than any of their 'history' lessons had throughout their school lives. The doctor triumphs again.

The continued references to China have always made me laugh... be it the gorgeous 'China Planet' in Turn Left, or the hilarious shots of The Master, having transplanted his DNA into the whole of the human race, lining Tiananmen square and preparing to go to war with the Doctor.

Whether that is a 'they all look the same anyway' joke, or just a genuine comment on the colossal size of the Chinese army I'm still not sure. It made me laugh regardless.

For the Chinese government to ban shows like this, which encourage values and wonderful notions of travel, discovery and amazement is a crime - especially as it's a show that captured the imagination of the thousands, yes thousands of Chinese youngsters I have introduced it to over the years.

But if having the doctor tamper with history scares the Chinese government, then so be it. Afterall, tampering with history is something they would know all about...


Further reading: http://www.guardian.co.uk/artanddesign/jonathanjonesblog/2011/apr/15/doctor-who-china-political-order

"I wanted to say something"

It is not often that one hears the honest words “thank you” spoken to a conservative at a ‘stop the cuts’ rally…

But then this was an interesting day.



The police closed traffic around the town to allow the protesters to march
Photo by JOE BRISCOE

THE HIGHEST estimates reckon a thousand and the local press said 500, but however many people really took to the streets of Newport – county town of the Isle of Wight – it was clear that people were nearing the end of their patience.

For me though, the most fascinating story of the day, wasn’t the drums beating steadily at the front of the surge of people, nor was it the way in which the protesters calmly but defiantly overran the town, forcing police to divert traffic every which way.

No, for me the most interesting moment of this smile-raising display of democracy and the right to congregate came ironically at the very end, as it was all winding up. A number of UNISON representatives had been giving rousing speeches, shouting things like “Egypt yesterday, Isle of Wight tomorrow!”, “this is people power in action” and “contact your councillor and give them hell!”, and the requisite booing of David Pugh, head of the IW council, had been conducted as if he were a pantomime villain.

Footage by Joe Briscoe

And when the final cheer had gone up, the crowd, which has seconds before been baying for blood, slowly began to saunter off home to a cup of tea and an evening of Dancing on Ice. How British.

But then the microphone clicked back on.

“I, I wanted to say something” came the voice, trembling. And the exodus halted.

What followed was an emotional speech from a visably affected man - an ex-conservative politician who had heard the march from nearby and felt the need to speak out against the cuts and his party.

Granted the heartfelt speech went to pieces early on, and a polite smattering of applause signified his cue to hand the mic back prematurely, but the point had been made.



"Andrew Turner welcomes you to the 1980s"
Photo by JOE BRISCOE

After the crowds had once again started to leave, I cornered him and asked him why - as a conservative -he had come down in the first place.

“I didn’t realise it was going to kick off but I heard it. Basically, I’m on the other side" he told me.



"I know the game. I’ve played the game of politics. You’re on a hiding to nowhere. The only way you’re going to change it is to get these people out at the ballot box. I’m a conservative but we need a change of direction."

At that moment, a man from the crowd spotted the still shaking man, came over, and thanked him. "It means a hell of a lot” he said.

I asked him why out of all the people standing around he felt compelled to speak out.

“There’s too much apathy. The world has changed. I’m fed up". He replied.
"I’ve been there. I’m conservative and I supported Mrs Thatcher. Right?”



"But I’ve just about had enough of it. For a start the IOW is the most poverty stricken blackspot. And what’s being done to upgrade it and give life some sort of status or quality? Absolutely nothing."

But while the turnout was surprisingly good, I suggested that surely there are many more people who didn't come down to oppose the cuts. What would he say to them?



Library cuts sparked the outrage on the Isle of Wight
Photo by JOE BRISCOE



“It’s not for me to say why people should come out. But here is so much apathy - so much apathy in this country. I’m not promoting revolution or anything but I’m just saying that there has to be a sense of what’s reasonable.” He looks up as we are again interrupted, this time by a young lady.

“I just wanted to say thank you – that you did that” she smiles.

He looks back at me: “I know an awful lot about the running of the council.”

I push: "But you’ve never felt the need to speak out like that before?

“Never. Well I can see deterioration in what I would call moral principles. I just couldn’t help it, I just heard what was going on and…” he trails off.

And while it is always reassuring to see hundreds of people take to the streets in an attempt to make things right, it is equally as important sometimes to see just one person, who for whatever reason feels the necessity to stand up, take the microphone and speak their heart.

They say cut back, we say fight back, indeed.

Footage by Joe Briscoe

Footage by Joe Briscoe

Free Tibet - 52 YEARS LATER

SECURITY in Tibet has been tightened, and suffocating restrictions on travel in the region have been imposed ahead of the anniversary of the Tibetan Uprising of 1959.

The area has effectively been closed to foreigners, and where once it was very difficult to get entry permits to the roof of the world, it is now virtually impossible.

 

Cosham: Do people in England really care about campaigns
such as Free Tibet?



Back in early 2009 when I was there, it was possible to slip away from your minders and speak to people - even though it was only 8 or 9 months after the 08 riots. It was strictly forbidden of course, but certainly do-able, as we found out.

But at this time of the year, when the anniversary of the largest challenge to Chinese rule comes around, the Chinese police show up for work with just that little extra fire in their step - their fists clenched just that bit tighter.




Emotions are high among the Tibetans still, though hearing that from someone inside Tibet is rare. The Dalai Lama is still blamed by the government for virtually every incident that happens, even though he has made it clear multiple times that he no longer seeks independence - just meaningful autonomy.



Lhasa - the capital of Tibet and the site of regular
protests against Chinese rule.
Photo by: Joe Briscoe



But back over here in England, when many are taking to the streets and waving banners and boards more likely to read 'Stop the cuts!' rather than 'Free Tibet' does anyone actually care anymore?

When the race for labour leader was nearing it's final stages last year, I must say that even though my head knew David Miliband to be the best choice, I still hoped against all hope that he would be beaten by his brother.

Why?



Because of this article in the Telegraph, dated January 9, 2010.

An excerpt:

...a remarkable statement from the Foreign Secretary, David Miliband, slipped out on the FCO website on October 29 2008, just before representatives of the Dalai Lama were due to hold talks in Beijing on the future of Tibet.

Buried in the statement was Britain's recognition for the first time that, like "all other members of the EU… we regard Tibet as part of the People's Republic of China". The historic significance of this change was not lost on Beijing, since until then Britain, with its unique role in Tibet's history, had for 100 years been very careful not to recognise Chinese sovereignty over Tibet. The group known as Free Tibet noted that Miliband's concession gravely weakened the position of the Tibetan envoys without getting anything in return – commenting how extraordinary it was that Britain should have "rewarded China in such a way in the very year that China has committed its worst human rights abuses in Tibet in decades, including killing and torture".



The Chinese military constantly patrols the Barkhor Square in Lhasa - the
spiritual home of Tibetan Buddhism and site of regular protests.
Photo by: Joe Briscoe



In one move, Miliband had undermined what so many people had been working so hard towards. Whether there were any gains from the concession we don't know. What did the Chinese offer our government in return for such a statement? But, whereas an admission of such a kind about a multitude of places would have made national press and ruffled feathers, this one slipped past virtually unnoticed. The Telegraph and the New York Times being the two major exceptions.



So the mighty Free Tibet campaign has failed. There is afterall, no hope.

Not so fast.

While the peace loving Dalai Lama grows old and frail and talks repeatedly of 'retirement', a younger generation of Tibetan youths outside of Tibet are growing impatient. They are less tethered to the anti-violence mantras of their spiritual leader, and more outraged than ever before at their lack of a home land. And if the hope of a free China seems so distant, then it is in the hands of this volatile and firey younger generation that the future of Tibet rests.



Lhasa: Tibetans, gathered outside the Jokhang temple in the city centre.
Photo by: Joe Briscoe



Whether or not that is a good thing I can not say - only time will tell. But what would restore my faith in the people of England and the west in general, is an effort to show solidarity. To breach the almost impenetrable wall of lies and propaganda that encircle China and Tibet, and to prove to the world and to ourselves that we care about more than just budget cuts. That while we are able to protest against such problems here at home, we are also able to stand up for those who not only have no libraries or public toilets, but even don't have their own country, or basic human rights for their families.

Today is March the 10th - a very special day in the history of a very special country.

A country which remains bound and chained and tortured.

And while John Humphries may have been suckered in, those of us that truly know China are not fooled.

Free Tibet indeed.

What a day that would, and still could be.

 

England: Cosham railway station.

艾未未 - Calling across the Thames

STROLLING along the banks of the Thames last week on one of my rare trips to the capital, I was caught somewhat off guard.

I know my way around the city centre fairly well these days and don't tend to get lost so easily, but for just a second I was thrown a little off. The sight of a Chinese dissident's name, calling to me across the Thames was the last thing I expected to see, and it caused me to perform a rather comical double take.

Even though he is one of the most respected artists in the world, the name Ai Weiwei means little to most in England. But in recent months, he has arguably found his largest British audience with his sunflower seed exhibition, currently showing at the Tate Modern until May 2, 2011.

Weiwei is that most rare of things - a Chinese dissident who has somehow retained the freedom to travel in and out of China, whilst also speaking his mind. Although the Beijing 'authorities' have constantly tried to silence him, by closing down his popular blog, and even attacking him, Weiwei continues to be vocal about his disapproal of the situation in China.

London's Tate Modern: Ai Weiwei's exhibition runs until May 2, 2011
Photo by: JOE BRISCOE

Now finally, with this ceramic sunflower seed display in London, people are beginning to associate his name with his art.

Previously, whenever I mentioned his name to people in England, I was invariably met with blank stares until that is, I explain that this is the man who designed the iconic Bird's Nest stadium for the 2008 genocide Olympics in Beijing.

Cast your mind back a few months to that BBC documentary with Alan Yentob and that Chinese guy? Yes, that's him too.

WHO IS AI WEI WEI?

Born in 1957, Weiwei is the son of Chinese poet Ai Qing, who was denounced during the Cultural Revolution and send to a labour camp when Weiwei was just 1 year old.

When he was 20, Weiwei enrolled at the Beijing Film Academy, and studied alongside superstar Chinese directors Chen Kaige and Zhang Yimou - but unlike these artists of the silver screen, Weiwei decided to vary his creativity somewhat. From 1981 to 1993 he lived in New York, creating conceptual art, until he was forced to return to China when his father became ill.



Beijing: Weiwei has publicly distanced himself from him most
prominent creation - the Bird's Nest Olympic Stadium in Beijing.
Photo by: JOE BRISCOE



His controversial art, along with his fearlessness to speak his mind has propelled him into an unenviable position. In 2009 he was savegely beaten by Chinese police, after trying to testify for Tan Zuoren - a fellow outspoken champion of human rights. 

The pair had attempted to compile a complete list of those who died in the catastrophic Sichuan earthquake in the hope that corruption in the local governments which led to the collapse of schools in the area would be fully revealed.

The beating caused Weiwei  to be admitted to a hospital in Munich were he underwent emergency brain surgery for a cerebral hemorrhage.

But last year, Weiwei was ranked 13 in ArtReview's guide to the 100 most powerful figures in contemporary art, and he quickly consolidated the position with his display at the Tate Modern.



London displays: A virtually unspoken name in China.

Photo by: JOE BRISCOE



THERE is very little chance of hearing his name mentioned in normal conversation in China, as even typing his name into the search engines immediately trips the great firewall, which censors it outright.

And so to see his name, bold as day, screaming out across the Thames was a pleasant moment indeed - and one which immediately reminded me of the massive chasm which still separates countries like England from China.

The air really is more fresh over here....